Monday 18 June 2007

Water and wine

Some 'wine experts' will probably go crazy when I say that a dash of soda water can make wine taste better. They have probably never tried it...

Imagine a hot summer day and you feel for something refreshing. And I don't mean a beer or a boring, too sweet, soft drink which make you sweat even more. Mineral water? Tastes like tap water with bubbles. A glass of wine perhaps? Well, this time of the day we maybe don't want to open up a bottle of the good stuff, it would be too much when it's this warm. So let's make a spritzer!

The spritzer, or 'fröccs' as it is named in Hungary where Ányos Jedlik invented the soda water in 1826, is very easy to produce:

- Take a simple, dry or semi dry, white, table wine. Or a lighter red, if you like a 'coloured' version. Add ice cold soda water (club soda) with big bubbles, as fizzy as possible. Mix in a simple high ball glass. No ice, no fancy glasses - use a simple glass for long drinks, or bigger.

For best and most economical result, make your own soda water with a soda siphon or streamer. If you don't have a soda siphon, improvise: Take (fizzy!!) mineral water - even if it won't be as good as with soda.

In case of emergency (when you are really thirsty and forgot to put the wine and water in the fridge) use some ice cubes to cool it, but rather not. Why add water to soda water!?!

Here are a couple of combinations, the names are translated from Hungarian where the spritzer culture is highly developed.

The Classic (also known as "Big spritzer")
2 dl wine, 1 dl soda water

Small spritzer (other names: "Small step" and "Whistle"
1 dl wine, 1 dl soda

Long step (sometimes "The Twisted")
1 dl wine, 2 dl soda

Janitor
3 dl wine, 2 dl soda

Vice janitor
2 dl wine, 3 dl soda

Landlord
4 dl wine, 1 dl soda

Tenant
1 dl wine, 4 dl soda

The Comedian (Krúdy spritzer)
9 dl wine, 1 dl soda

- No, the last one is not a joke. The legend says that the author only wanted to kid with the wine and only added this amount of water...

Wednesday 6 June 2007

Soul

I admit that I am very conservative when it comes to wine. This doesn't mean that I only drink wine from France, Italy or other major wine producing countries in Europe - I am open minded enough to try wine from newer and unknown areas. The pure and simple explanation for my conservatism when selecting wine is that I prefer the producers with longer tradition, more experience and knowledge, and first of all - more soul - when they make their wine.

You maybe wonder what I mean with the expression 'soul'?
Well, in short terms it's about the wine makers philosophy, why he, or she, cultivates grapes and then makes wine of them. It's nothing romantic about it, although a lot of people have a romantic picture of wine making and the work that comes with it. It's hard work, with a lot of risk in it. If the wine maker doesn't cheat of course…

How do we measure the 'soul-factor' then? This is of course very difficult, specially when you haven't met and talked with, and heard the stories from, the wine maker himself (or her!). And sometimes it's impossible. Because many times wine, also among the expensive ones from famous and well known producers with high rankings on the top lists, is lacking this, for me, very important component. I fear that the wine making companies (or actually "industries") from the new world operating on the global market, and also many of the wine makers from the old world, are so streamlined to fit the "market's" demands so they can't deliver the most important ingredient which makes a wine unique, outstanding and memorable - 'soul'.


The photo was taken on the Tokaj-Hegyalja mountain at the harvest of 2002 - exactly 500 years after the Tokaji Hétszölö estate was founded. Wine has been cultivated more than 800 years in the area, and Tokaj has the oldest classification system, dated 1700 (155 years before Bordeaux!).
A wine region which for me defines 'soul' is Tokaj. Here you can find the ultimate mix of traditional wine making, history, unique terroir(s), micro climat(s), superior and ancient cellars for nursing combined with the producers passionate love to the earth and their wine.

Tokaj wine got soul.